How to read an FCC ID and find the right fob
The FCC ID narrows a remote to one exact part rather than a family that looks identical in photographs. Here is where to find it and how to use it.
If you order fobs from photographs you will eventually order the wrong one, because two remotes can be visually identical and carry different radio modules. The FCC ID is the code that stops that happening.
What it is
The FCC ID identifies the radio module inside the remote: the transmitter, its frequency and its modulation. It is issued per module, not per vehicle, which is exactly why it is useful. It narrows a fob to one exact part instead of to a family.
Where to find it
Usually moulded into the back of the case, or printed on the circuit board inside. Split the case if the outside is worn. It typically opens with a short letter group such as HYQ or KR5 followed by digits and letters.
If the case is broken and the code is gone, the OEM part number on the board is the next best identifier.
Using it
Paste it straight into the search box at the top of any page here. The search reads part numbers, FCC IDs, keyway codes and SKUs, not just words, which is the point of it.
If you have a code and are not sure what kind of code it is, the identify a key tool takes it and tells you what it recognises.
What an FCC ID does not tell you
It identifies the radio. It does not identify the transponder chip, and it does not identify the blade profile. Those are three separate specifications in one piece of plastic, and matching one does not match the others.
This is the trap. A fob with the right FCC ID and the wrong chip will lock and unlock the doors and will not start the car.
A short checklist
- FCC ID, off the board or the case.
- Frequency, printed next to the crystal, and confirmed by the FCC ID.
- Button count, matching what the customer has.
- Transponder chip, read separately.
- Blade profile and keyway, if the fob carries a blade.